A Cultural Divide

Discover Gorizia and Nova Gorica, the first joint European Capital of Culture that straddles two magnificent countries.

Observe this delightful city from one of the hilltop vantage points and be struck by its strange beauty: medieval on one side, modern on the other. For this is a city of not two halves, but two countries: Gorizia in Italy and Nova Gorica in Slovenia.

Once the frontline of the Cold War, the city is no longer divided and exploring it is now both a pleasure and a breeze, though the region remains a melting pot. Before 1918, it was part of the Austrian Empire, ruled from Vienna. After Austria’s defeat in the First World War, it was handed to Italy and governed from Rome. Then, following Italy’s defeat in the Second World War, the area was seized by Yugoslav partisans and later occupied by Western Allies.

All this of course, makes it the ideal choice for the first joint European Capital of Culture, symbolising how far our continent has come in its peacetime efforts.

If you’re weary of bustling cities packed with tourists, Gorizia provides a peaceful and evocative retreat – an ideal destination to explore history, culture, and the art of quiet reflection. Gorizia feels untouched by modernity, with no flashy chain stores, minimal traffic, and few contemporary buildings.

Its historic centre, while compact, exudes an enigmatic, almost cinematic atmosphere, and its main border crossing features a poignant museum. There is also a nearby monastery, which is well worth a visit.

In stark contrast, Nova Gorica displays brutalist high-rise architecture favoured by Communist regimes worldwide. Perhaps lacking in beauty of the traditional sort, it is steeped in historic splendour.

Though once the site of some of the First World War’s bloodiest battles, the countryside on both sides of the border is a patchwork quilt of farms, fields and endless vineyards that are home to one of Italy’s finest wines, Collio. This adds another aspect to one’s adventure as you sip on a glass of chilled white and sample the local fare, which is Germanic in style. In this sense, a visit here becomes three-in one: the old, the new and the timeless.

Getting there

Fly to Venice from London Heathrow with British Airways, from Gatwick with EasyJet, or from Edinburgh, Luton, or Stansted with Ryanair. EasyJet and Ryanair also operate flights from Bristol and Manchester. Trains from Venice to Gorizia take 2–3 hours and cost around €15 each way.

Where to stay

Once the Palazzo Strassoldo, now the Grand Hotel Entourage. This elegant rococo building offers old-fashioned charm with a warm, homely atmosphere. Rooms are reasonably priced and steeped in history.